What To Expect When Commissioning A Bespoke Suit
The journey of creating a bespoke garment is a collaborative experience that’s a rarity in today’s fast-paced world where your vision is weaved into the transformation of a bale of fabric to a tailored masterpiece that exudes elegance and individuality.
Before you embark on your bespoke journey, these are some considerations to expect:
Do Insist On The Perfect Fit
Commissioning a bespoke suit means it’s bespoken for you from the drafting to the delivery stage. Constructed with a handsewn full floating canvas crafted exactly to your measurements and not the other way round, the result is a superb fit that will enhance your proportions and flatter your physique.
“The foundation of a good suit is its canvas – it is what gives the garment structure. It should be completely handmade where nothing is pre-defined and specially moulded per the structure of an individual”, shares Arun Sabharwal, General Manager of MARLO.
Don’t Ignore The Opportunity to Explore A Vast Fabric Library
The quality of your suiting fabric is key to the outcome of your bespoke ensemble. From luxurious wools and cashmere to elegant silk blends, linens and performance materials, the options at bespoke tailors are limitless.
As a general rule of thumb, the higher the thread count, the finer, softer and smoother the yarn is, with 140 to 160 thread count being optimum for everyday wear. Ask to view and feel different fabrics from reputable mills to have a better idea of the preferences and purpose of your commission.
Tailoring houses with direct access to renowned mills around the world will have stock readily on offer versus sourcing for your choice.
“Some mills will only supply certain ranges of their fabrics to genuinely authentic bespoke tailors — its availability can therefore be suggestive of the authenticity of the tailor you are dealing with”, advises Andrew Menon, founder of MARLO
Do Obsess Over The Small Details
When in concert with the Master Tailor and Fashion Consultant, their artisan eye and deep expertise will spot and tweak an array of meticulous details that make all the difference.
From observing your natural stance, the height and balance of your shoulders, fitting the fabric so it drapes to flatter, to fitting your jacket so it lacks draglines, the Master Tailor considers every detail to ensure your suit is perfect from the onset.
Don’t Cut Corners
On average, a bespoke suit will require a higher upfront investment but the additional premium promises superior craftsmanship, personalisation, and customisation options resulting in a suit that is truly yours and made to last.
With proper care and maintenance, your bespoke suit can serve you for many years, making it a savvy investment in the long run.
“A true gentleman of the modern day cannot get away with an inadequately pieced together suit,” shares Andrew. “His compatriots will know the difference.”
Do Learn The Tell-Tale Signs
From doing a pinch test to check if it is structured with a floating canvas, fine hand stitches running along the lapel, hand-sewn buttonholes, pants tailored with a small break so it brushes the top of one’s shoes, these seemingly innocuous details may go unnoticed to the untrained eye but are crucial giveaways about the quality of your commission.
Don’t Chase Trends
Doing due diligence beforehand to learn more about your preferences so the Style Consultant can guide and advise on options versus opting for the latest runway fad that may not look and feel like you.
Do Express Your Personal Style
Bespoke suits are like a canvas (albeit a beautifully handcrafted one) to express your individuality and personal style.
Take advantage and personalise everything from the cut to the lining and lapels, you’ll have complete control over every aspect of the design, down to the choice of buttons (e.g. horn, mother of pearl, etc), so it’s a garment that is truly you, and truly one-of-a-kind.
Don’t Rush Your Order
If you’re expecting your suit to be ready at the end of the week, you’re looking for an off-the-rack suit.
A bespoke order takes between 4-6 weeks and includes at least two fittings to mimic the actual fall and drape of the jacket and trousers with each fitting geared towards improving the fit until no further adjustments are needed, so the finished garment is precise and fits like a glove, advises Andrew.
Do Enjoy Being a Co-Creator
From the initial personalised consultation to the detailed fittings, the journey of creating a bespoke suit is a collaborative experience that gives one a first-hand peek into the sartorial world of bespoke tailoring.
The opportunity to craft an ensemble just for you isn’t just priceless but an experience to be remembered.